José Berry: The Last Cattle Herder of Saint Barthélemy Faces Uncertain Future

A Decades-Long Tradition at Risk

José Berry, a long-standing resident of Saint Barthélemy, is currently recognized as the last individual on the island to maintain a cattle herd. For over thirty years, Berry has dedicated himself to raising cows, an activity that once played a more significant role in the island's economy. His current herd, consisting of thirteen bovines, is now facing an uncertain future as land previously used for grazing is being reclaimed by a new owner in Grand Fond.

Berry's commitment to his herd extends beyond mere sustenance; he views it as a vital part of the island's 'heritage'. He supplements his cattle's diet with unsold fruits and vegetables from a local supermarket, demonstrating a resourceful approach to farming. The potential loss of grazing land could force him to relocate his animals to Saint-Martin, a prospect he hopes to avoid.

Historical Roots of Cattle Farming in Saint Barth

Cattle farming has a deep history in Saint Barthélemy. During the 1940s to 1970s, cows raised in areas such as Grand Fond and Saline were exported to Guadeloupe, and the island even maintained a 'tuerie municipale' (municipal slaughterhouse) in Gustavia. Early French settlers in the 17th century relied on fishing and livestock farming due to the island's infertile land and limited resources, which made large-scale agriculture challenging.

The island's rocky soil and scarcity of freshwater have historically posed significant hurdles for extensive agricultural development. Despite these challenges, small-scale agriculture is beginning to re-emerge, with tropical fruits and root vegetables being cultivated in areas like Petite Saline.

The Evolving Agricultural Landscape

In recent years, Saint Barthélemy has seen a shift in its agricultural sector. While the total agricultural land area has decreased, the number of agricultural exploitations on the island doubled between 2010 and 2020, following decades of decline. This resurgence is partly driven by a younger generation of farm managers, with an average age of 41 in 2020, many of whom are better educated and bring new perspectives to local farming.

Efforts are underway to support and structure the agricultural sector. The creation of the Association des Agriculteurs (APAG) in October 2022 aims to unite farmers and address issues such as access to land and the lack of subsidies. The island is also developing a territorial plan for agriculture, reflecting a growing interest in local and sustainable food solutions, even as it remains a luxury tourist destination heavily reliant on imported goods.

A Community Connection

José Berry's herd is not just a personal endeavor; it serves as a connection to the island's past and a point of interest for the community. He often welcomes parents and children who visit to observe and interact with his cows, sharing his passion and allowing them to experience a piece of traditional island life. The recent birth of a calf named Marcus on September 10 further underscores the continuity of this unique practice. The potential cessation of his cattle-herding activities would represent a significant loss for both Berry and the cultural fabric of Saint Barthélemy.